Handies Peak – Another Jewel in the San Juan Mountains

I need to get 3 more peaks to finish my 40 14ers before I am 50 years old (40×50). It looks like the last peaks will be Handies Peak (check). Conundrum Peak (a “soft” 14er but it counts in my book). Blanca Peak (sticks out of the otherwise flat San Louis valley). I turn 50 in February so I need to check these mountains off this season. Don and I got a late start last year not getting our first new 14er until late July. So we were determined to set out earlier this year.

We picked Handies for no other reason than it looked pretty easy (relatively) and we could get to it as soon as the trailhead melted out. The melting out happened pretty quickly as the late Spring temps had been warm. I had been checking the trailhead conditions on 14ers.com. It appeared that by Late June we were good to go.

Don and I left on Friday afternoon. I had just started a new job that week and already had to take off early my first Friday! Fortunately my new job at Qwest and my boss are excellent and the situation proved to not be an issue.

Don and I left the Denver area around 1ish and headed to Gunnison for dinner at our favorite pizza joint Pie-Zan's on 730 North Main Street. They make an excellent facsimile of New York style pizza. We have eaten there a lot over the years and it’s always good.

From Gunnison we made our way south through the bustling town of Lake City. Past the Slumgullion Slide and its associated beautiful Lake San Cristobal. I easily navigated the road to the America Basin trailhead in my 2004 Ford Escape. The road is really not that bad. I think a decent car could make it most of the way up the road except for a couple of shirt rough spots. High clearance is definitely a good idea but the road is not horrendous.

The Second Stream Crossing at 11,400 Feet

We drove all the way to the second, and larger, stream crossing. It was no problem to cross. We set up camp in a spot immediately after the crossing. We were about ¼ mile from the actual American Basin trailhead. The next morning as we hiked to the trailhead we saw that we could have made the short distance in the truck. But heck…It only added a little bit of walking to the hike. There were several streams washing down the surrounding peaks down improbably steep hillsides. American Basin is magnificent. It was still a little early for wildflowers. But, the green brush vegetation, colorful rock, streams, and patches of snow made for a visual treat.

American Basin Near Sunset

 

Our Campsite Just Above the Second Stream Crossing

We each set up our tents and organized gear. We talked strategy and decided on an early start even though the weather was forecast to be perfect. The earlier we started the earlier we would be done. And with a 6+ hour drive back home we would be able to get back before it was too late.

The alarm clocks (cell phone alarms actually) went off about 5 a.m. Don and I woke up and we choked down our familiar part tart breakfast. Don made coffee in his new (my old) Jetboil. We started hiking around 6:15 a.m.

We made our way up the road to the actual trailhead where we signed in at the register and started up the trail. It was not really that steep but I was really feeling tired. I didn’t really know why. I also didn’t know it at the time but Don was feeling the same way. It was a bit odd. I felt as if we were taking f-o-r-e-v-e-r to just get the first mile or so done. Actually, we were holding a very good pace exceeding 1,000 feet/hour. I am not sure why it felt so slow and tiring. It was just one of those days I suppose.

Sunrise in American Basin Above the Trailhead

 

This Waterfall is but One of the Incredible Natural Features of American Basin and Handies Peak

We had to do some route finding now and then as there was still some snow on and around the actual trail. Nothing too difficult. It was just hard to see where the trail went for short segments but we soldiered on in our discomfort. There was at this early hour quite a bit of ice on the trail. Some parts were rather wet from all the snow melt. With the nighttime temps below freezing there were many parts of the trail that were simply a sheet of ice which made for some careful navigation.

We finally reached Sloan Lake and from here to the summit we both felt much better and really started to enjoy this hike.

Long Shadows Cast by the Low Morning Sun. A Frozen Sloan Lake in Center of the Frame

The terrain around Sloan Lake is very chaotic (in a geologic sense) but interesting. It is dominated by piles of old rock rubble that has eroded off the surrounding peaks and tumbled into the basin. In the approximate middle of this jumble is Sloan Lake. Just magnificent! The trail has been recently rerouted to switchback up a hill just below the lake and then traverses, loosing some elevation, towards the longer and steeper ascent up to the summit. Looking up the remainder of the hike it appeared to grind up pretty steeply but it was not really bad at all and the scenery was astounding, as is common in the San Juans.

We started up towards the summit after a refueling stop and applying sun block. We really felt great now and the summit was within view and our reach. We climbed up to the top of the shoulder/ridge leading to Handies Summit. American Basin was stretched out beneath us in true glory. This statement is not hyperbole. It really is incredible. We were high enough now to really take in the vast San Juan views. The weather was pure blue sky. A slight breeze and a chill in the air. A basically perfect mountain hiking day.

The Trail Stretches out Above Sloan Lake Heading for Handies Summit

 

Colorful Lichen Decorate the Rocks On the Ridgeline Leading to the Summit

We continued climbing making great time. We were on the summit around 9:30 a.m. There were 2 other folks on the rather smallish summit. The views, the mountain, the companionships was great. One person on the summit was Matt Payne who is a 14ers.com regular and a nice guy. He was on the summit with his father. We talked about CO 14ers, hiking, and web sites. We took pictures and ate. Rested and relaxed. Matt and I both host mountain oriented web sites and both obviously have similar interested towards the outdoors. Me and Don and Matt, and Matt’s dad bantered on about hiking and such. It was a blast. I have rarely met anyone on a 14er (or 13er) summit that I didn’t like. Typically people are interesting, friendly, talkative, and helpful. We all share the same interests after all.

Don (left) and Me on the Handies Peak Summit

 

Looking Down the Trail From the Summit. Small Switchbacks, Green Rock, and Sloan Lake a Long Way Down in the Distance

Don and I finally decided it was time to head back down. Matt and his father headed off to Whitecross Mountain. We met a few other folks heading up. The weather was still perfect. It was great to have our first 14er complete in June and to have it be so incredibly scenic and in the midst of such great weather.

A Look Across American Basin on our Hike Back to Camp

We arrived back at camp around 12:30 p.m. We drove the long road back into Lake City and ate at the Tic Toc Dinner (no food finer). We had great burritos and somewhat odd service. Not bad service….just a little odd. Fitting for Lake City in a perfectly eccentric way. Then it was off for the long drive back to Denver.

Handies Peak Hike GPS Track

Next up…Castle and Conundrum Peaks

Shavano…Again…and again…and again

I have climbed Mt Shavano…3 times. Its not that Mt Shavano is bad, ugly, or unpleasant. It just has the unfortunate distinction of being located in the Sawatch mountain range. Home to some of the longest, steepest, hottest, and at times…distressingly monotonous peaks in Colorado.

The first time I climbed Shavano was August 2002. When me and a climbing partner arrived at the summit the weather was a little iffy and we looked over at Tabaguache and said, “naaaahhh.”

I next climbed Shavano in June 2006 with fellow Platinum Team member Mike O’Hearn. On that day Shavano and Tabaguache became my first double 14er summit hike. We had great weather and the climb was a blast.

So why would I climb Shavano again you might ask? Well, we usually kick off the climbing season with a warm up hike up, say, Bierstadt. This year however as Don and I looked over our portfolio of unclimbed mountains Don asked if we could climb something he had not yet climbed. As it was intended to be a warm up anyway, I thought, “what the heck.” and suggested Shavano with an option for Tabaguache.

I though that we would have a 50/50 chance at best to climb to Shavano’s summit given that it was still early in the season. It was still May. I thought there may be too much snow on the trail although I knew the road to the trailhead was open through trailhead reports.

So on Friday afternoon Don and I set off towards the Shavano trailhead. We arrived a little early. About 4ish I think. We set up camp and instead of sitting around and staring at each other Don and I decided to do some exploring.

From our exploring near the campsite and the drive in we could see that there was no snow in the lower areas. We could however see some snow fields higher up on the mountain and the Angel of Shavano was still well developed.

Our Campsite Conveniently Located at the Trailhead

It finally got late enough in the evening for us to eat our freeze-dried dinners. We discussed climbing strategy, organized our gear, and finally got tired enough to turn in.

The next morning we were on the trail by about 6AM. The weather was forecast to be perfect although a little breezy.

A Beautiful Aspen Stand Near The Trailhead

We arrived at the trail register and signed in. The reregister was torn to pieces and missing most of its bulk. People had been writing in their names wherever there was a scrap of room. The register had not been changed in months.

You Never Know Who You Might Meet on a Hike. Look at the Name In the Upper Right - B. Midddlebrook. Webmaster of the 14ers.com Site

Don and I climbed up through the thick pine forest. At times, because of the snow, the trail was hard to find. I had been up this mountain 2 times previously and never remembered that the trail was hard to find. As we got closer to tree line the trail became more distinct.

As we hiked higher there were more frequent and larger snow fields. None of these required snow shoes but gaitors, which we had on, were well advised. We plodded our way along the trail crossing the occasional snow fields and finally made it to the long traverse that leads you to the saddle South of the summit.

Near Tree Line and Some of the First Snow Patches We Encountered Around 12,000 feet

At this point Don and I elected to climb up the Angels “head” at the summit base (around 13,200 feet) and climb directly up the South face.

A Look Along the Traverse With the Saddle (center background) and the Angel Just Below the Saddle

As Don and I arrived at the Angel’s “head” we turned North and headed directly to the summit grinding steeply upwards.

Don Climbs the Angel Directly Towards Shavano’s Summit, Which is Just Visible Over the Slope at Top Center

 

Two Climbers Make Their Way up the Steep Slope Towards the Summit. Snow Fields and the Green Pine Forest are Far Below.

After about 40 more minutes of steep climbing Don and I arrived at the snow covered summit. The weather was perfect with a strong chilly breeze blowing.

Don Takes In the Vast and Magnificent Views from the Summit

This was an extremely clear day. From Shavano we could see all the way down the San Luis Valley to Blanca Peak. It was really incredible.

Me, On My First 14er of 2010

 

A Snowy But Beautiful Look Towards the North From the Summit

Don and I looked over to Tabaguache. Unfortunately, while the weather was great, the entire route between Shavano and Tabaguache was totally snowed in. I had very little motivation to head over to Tabby. By very little I mean nearly zero. Between that and the snowy conditions we bailed on Tabby to come back and bag another day. At least for Don.

The hike back to the trailhead was uneventful although it was unseasonable hot. It seems like no matter how dense the forest cover you are always roasting in the afternoon sun hiking back to the trailhead. We arrived back at camp around 2:30 p.m. We packed up camp and set off for the Coyote Cafe near Buna Vista for a celebratory burrito. It was a great start to the 2010 season.

GPS Track for the Shavano Climb

4,000 Meters - The Unknown Threshold

4,000 Meters is the unknown altitude threshold within the US. However, the 4,000 m threshold is as well known in Europe where the metric system is used, as is 14,000 feet in the US.

How high is 4,000 meters? It is 13,123.3596 feet, or to round a bit, it is 13, 123 feet.

After completing my 14er list, which includes 40 14ers, I will turn my attention to climbing the hundreds of magnificent and far less visited 13ers within the state of Colorado for the purposes of photography, writing, and pure enjoyment.

With some luck I should complete my remaining three 14ers this year in the climbing season of 2010. At that point my attention will be entirely on the 13ers and this blog.

Me on top of Audubon Peak (13,221 ft). a magnificent 13er in the Indian Peaks Wilderness of Colorado

Summiting Sniktau In January, Its Like a Little Bit of Everest (sort of)

Ah it was good to get out again. It had been months since I had been in the mountains and I had been trying to hike Mt. Sniktau for weeks. I wanted to climb this peak on New Years eve but the weather simply would not cooperate. But finally it all looked good for Jan 9.

I would be hiking with a new partner. John Nibarger. Don (my usual climbing partner) was unfortunately not available and John and I wanted to get out. So when the weather cleared, we were off.

John and I wanted to get out early to avoid ski traffic and to catch the sunrise. We left around 5ish and made it to Loveland Pass about 6:30. Another 30 minutes of getting our gear on and we were ready to walk. We were just a little late to catch the sun where we wanted it but we still got a great sunrise.

Sunrise from Loveland Pass looking South towards Keystone

John and I ground our way up the nearly 900 feet to the ridge from the pass. Its always fun on this hike to hop out of your car and grind up 900 feet. We attained the top of the ridge in a relatively short time except for several photo stops on the way up.

The Top of the Ridge at Just Under 13,000 feet. The Sun is Just Rising Above Torreys Peak

We turned North and headed along the ridge towards a few sub-peaks, another 13er, and finally Sniktau. The temperature was around 0 degrees F and the winds were light to moderate. The sky was brilliantly clear.

John with the Snow Covered Backdrop

As long as you were moving it was not too cold. Actually, for Sniktau in the Winter, the weather was incredible.

We ascended the final 13er before Sniktau and headed down the last saddle. From here it was a straight forward climb through hard pack snow, scoured rock, and sastrugi.

Mt. Sniktau Rises in the Distance from its Neighboring 13er

We began the relatively easy climb up through the snow and rock. We were cautious not to get too close to the cornice to the right of our route. From the bottom of the saddle it was relatively easy to pick out  a line to the summit. The snow was all solid. John cut up towards the right side staying mostly in snow.

John Cuts Up a Direct Line to the Summit Just above the Rocks

I took a line to the left through the rocks more on the trail but it did not really matter. It was all solid.

After a few minutes of climbing the final pitch we were nearly on the summit. The weather was still great. Cold and breezy at times but clear. We popped up on to the summit about 90 minutes after leaving the trail head.

John Summits at Around 9:30 AM

John got to the summit a bit before me as I hung back to breath and take pictures. It was a great day and a fantastic climb.

View From the Top. Grizzly Peak, (foreground left) and Cupid (foreground center)

 

John at the Summit

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Me at the Summit…Yeah!

The return climb was pretty straight forward following our ascent path. It was still cold but rapidly warmed up as we descended from the ridge back down to Loveland Pass. It actually got warm enough that I had to take off my gloves and loosen my jacket. At this time the pass was packed with people, tourists, skiers a plenty. It was about 11AM and John and I were headed to Tommyknockers for a beer and lunch.

Tommyknockers in Idaho Springs. It was a Lot More Crowded When we Left at about 12:30

James Peak – It Surprisingly Provides a Lot of Solitude…Above the Glacier

James Peak is a solid hike. It has a lot logistically going for it. Its close to Denver, and it has a paved road all the way to its St. Marys trailhead. It even has paid parking and a crapper at the trailhead.

But its also a great scenic hike as well. It is not particularly difficult and certainly nothing technical, at least on its normal route. But the views afforded from James Peak’s broad summit are outstanding stretching North to Longs Peak and South along the Skyline Traverse (Parry, Eva, Flora, and Co Mines Peaks) and beyond to Grays/Torreys and Evans. Quite a lot to take in actually on a clear day as we had.

Joining the great ranks of the unemployed recently, I took it upon myself, when not involved in the activities of finding a new job, to take a least a little free time for some hiking. I was originally going to do this hike during the week. But James had been discussed as the perfect reunion hike for my Spring Wilderness Trekking School (WTS) class so I thought I would try it on a weekend and see who I could rope in with me. So, with short notice I sent the invite out to the class. Unfortunately, on such short notice only one of my ex-pupils, Elizabeth, was able to make the hike.
I have only been to St. Marys in the early

Spring when the glacier (to be geographically correct I should note here that St. Marys is not really a glacier but rather a permanent snow field) is in full form with a hefty load of snow. Actually, several times I have been to the glacier, usually for WTS Snow Day, the snow load was actually being added to by a winter storm with winds howling.

Elizabeth (E) and I met at 5:30am and arrived at the paid parking around 6:30am. Right on our schedule. We got our gear together and departed towards the trail head.

We trudged up the road following the trail that looked unfamiliar to me as it had no snow. As we arrived at the St. Marys Lake we were greeted by a site that I have never seen (and hope never to see again) in the mountains.

There was a large group of about 20 guys, say around college age or so. They all looked normal…except for two guys who were apparently naked, signing, and doing a little dance.

Now mind you I don't often pine to look at naked guys (never actually) but this was like a train wreck. I was psychologically compelled to look. Then I noticed that the two guys were not really naked. They were mostly naked but they had on skin colored underwear.

So onward E and I hiked past this unusual spectacle as the two almost naked guys kept up their singing and dancing.

We could both see that the glacier was substantially smaller than in the early spring and provided access to its upper reaches on rock on the glacier’s right side.
 

A Much Reduced St. Marys Glacier Accentuated by Fall Color

We climbed to the base of the glacier and decided to climb up the rocks on the glacier’s right. The “snow” at this time of day was solid ice and didn't offer a very good purchase.

It was windy from the lake up to the lower portion of the glacier. I began to worry that it would be just a heck of a windy day up higher and particularly on the peak.

The Remnants of St. Marys in Late Summer

There was a faint but followable trail on the right side of the snow so E and I made out way up on rock instead of ice. The trail was descent if not hard to follow at times but did get you up the steepest portion of this climb quickly.

The Upper Portion of the Glacier Narrows Considerably Before Disappearing

The glacier continues up its steep slope becoming progressively narrower until it finally peters out all together. From here E and I simply climbed out of the snowless gully and popped out onto the relatively vast and level “Jamaica Plain.”

James Peak Finally Visible (on right) From the Broad and Flat Jamaica Plane

So far E and I had only seen the people at St. Marys Lake and one other hiker who was heading up the glacier. Solitude indeed. The wind had become calm. The morning light was great. And the temps cool. It looked to be a great day.
E and I crossed the plain at a

good clip. The only tricky part of this hike is crossing a road that bisects Jamaica Plain. I am not sure why this was unclear to me but the trail was not abundantly obvious after crossing the road. We could see the trail in the distance and some signage. So I just headed for the sign and picked up the trail easily and headed of towards the peak in the distance.

After crossing the plain the trail cuts to the Southwest to a steep overlook of Loch Lomond, Ice, Ohman, Stewart, and Reynolds Lakes. All magnificent hanging lakes tucked into a glacial gorge. The view into the gorge and these lakes is rugged and magnificent.

Ice Lake Just Visible Nestled Against the Base of Mt. Bancroft

We continued through 12,600 feet up the sloping side of James Peak following the great trail towards the summit now well within view. The weather was still perfect. It was a little breezy and chilly. While comfortable for hiking we both had to wear gloves.

The Weather Still Perfect. Cairns Mark the Great Trail to James Peak Summit in the Near Distance

The last bit of the climb, while steeper just below the summit is really not that difficult. This 8 mile round trip hike really doles out the 2,900 feet of elevation gain gently.

E and I motored efficiently up this last section and hiked right on up to the broad sloping summit. It was just before 10am as we walked onto the summit. We found a rather large stone shelter, put our gear down, and meandered about the summit taking in the views and snapping images.

This was E’s first 13er and she was quite pleased. She had done great.

Elizabeth has a Rare Outburst of Emotion as She Celebrates Her First 13er

And the Summit Shot With Both of Us, 13,294 Feet

We both relaxed, ate, and took in the incredible views and the fine weather. It was till only a  bit after 10:00am and we had the summit to ourselves, for the time being.

The View to the South. Bancroft in the Foreground and Grays and Torreys Way Out in the Background

After about 30 minutes a couple came up to the summit with two dogs. They made a bee line for another shelter on the summit and settled in. Another person showed up shortly after that with yet another dog. As E and I did not have a dog we felt uncomfortable and decided it was time to head back to the glacier.

The trip down was great. Relatively easy hiking, great weather, and good company. We had the same trouble finding the trail as it crossed the jeep road, which at this time of day had jeeps on it. We corrected our navigational errors and were soon back on the trail heading back to the glacier.

We descended towards St. Marys Lake. This time we stayed on the actual glacier as the snow/ice had softened in the sun and provided a bit easier walking than the loose talus and scree.

As we descended towards the lake we were surprised to see a bunch of people. All sorts. No mostly naked frat boys. But a rather broad cross section of outdoor enthusiasts from families to groups heading up the glacier for a few moments of summer skiing. It was actually quite crowded.

The views of St Marys Lake, The glacier, and some Fall aspens were beautiful.

St. Marys Over the Toe of the Glacier in Late Morning

Fall Colors Accent an Already Incredible View

We walked on out to the truck and headed into Idaho Springs for a beer and lunch at Tommyknockers. A great finish.

James Peak is really a great hike. E and I had a fantastic time hiking together and sharing a relaxed scenic outdoor adventure. Good Times!

GPS Track Data for the James Peak Hike. Red is Route Up. Blue Route Down.