Mt. Antero, The Reward is at End of the Road

Its been a long long time. Blanca Peak, September 18, 2010.

That was the last time that Don, my usual hiking partner, and I last ascended a 14er together. This year he and his wife celebrated the birth of the their daughter right in the middle of climbing season. I mean really?! Who has babies during climbing season?

In any case, things had settled down enough for Don and family that Don’s wife graciously granted Don a weekend pass to climb. We had planned a few earlier dates but there was either too much snow or just bad weather. August 27 was to be the lucky day!

Don and I left the Denver area on Friday afternoon. By the time we got to South Park the clouds had started to fill in and it was sprinkling. When we got to Buena Vista (BV) it was raining and as we drove deeper and higher into the mountains towards Antero’s high trailhead it was pouring and looked pretty menacing. It appeared, at least then, that we may just have a night out camping in the rain and breakfast somewhere in BV the next day.

The local forecast called for 40% chance of thunderstorms for several days so we figured we would give Antero a shot if we got a good weather window. With the rain at campsite arrival however it appeared that the only climbing we would do would be back into the Jeep in the morning to head back down to town.

We arrived at the camping area at around 5:30pm near 10,850 feet just beyond the first stream crossing. We found a great spot and set up. We had enough tree cover that we could remain relatively dry. We set up our tents and rehydrated our “food.” Chili Mac with MEAT! and Beef Spew. Honestly they were pretty good. Well…they were good for freeze-dried at least.

Camp at 10,850 feet. This Shot was Taken After the Climb…That’s Why it isn't Raining.

Later in the evening the rain relented a bit and were were treated to one of the most intense sunset alpenglows we had ever seen. It was magnificent and Don was feeling pretty chipper to be back in the mountains after such a long absence.

A Preposterously Intense Sunset as Seen from our Campsite

Don and I agreed on a 4:30am wake up in order to get up and down Antero, hopefully, within a good weather window. We would wake up and see if it was raining at 4:30am. If so we would go back to sleep and try again in an hour.

As it turns out, it was not raining. When we popped out of our tents the sky was completely clear and the Milky Way and attendant stars were painted across the sky quite remarkably. We in fact did remark on its magnificence! The climb looked like a go.

We both attended to our morning duties and were ready to hike by around 5:30ish. We began hiking up the mining road and swiftly crossed the second stream crossing, at which point I realized I had left my hat back on the headrest (to dry) of the passenger’s seat in Don’s Jeep. So I dumped my pack and went back to camp then meeting again above the stream crossing about 15 minutes later.

Again we started off up the mining road. Below tree line it was so humid that my glasses were constantly fogged up. No breeze. Warmish temps. Plenty of humidity. It was rather frustrating. As soon as we ascended above tree line there was a slight breeze and there air seemed to dry out a bit. It was MUCH more comfortable.

A Typical Early Morning View of the Mining (Jeep) Road Just Above Tree Line

Walking on the road was not too bad. Roads can be, for those who have done this, a pretty crappy way to climb a 14er. They are not typically scenic. They can be uneven and rutted out, and rocky. As far as roads go however, the road up Antero is rather pleasant. It’s in good shape and it actually gets better as you ascend.

Point 13,870 Glows Against the Dark Foreground

The road seemingly winds back and forth and back and forth…for miles up towards Antero. Actually, seemingly is not the correct word. It really does wind around for miles as it ascends. Don and I were able to make great time on this part of the hike cruising up the road in what seemed like an improbably short time. The gloom and fogginess of early morning gave way to giddy cheerfulness. The weather was good but there were high altitude clouds beginning to blow in around the area providing a subtle warning that we had a specific time window in which to climb this thing.

We made our way up through 13,000 feet as the road takes a long loop around the South West shoulder of Antero. At 13,000 feet there is coincidentally a cairn built next to the road. As there were no other cairns to this point I can only guess that a thoughtful person built this cairn as a milestone for that altitude.

As we made our way around the loop we came upon a Forest Service informational sign. It describes many things including the Native American Chief Antero, wildflowers and gems which, can be found on or around these mountain.

Forest Service Sign on the Big Loop at 13,100 Feet

 

Don Rifles Through His Pack With A Colorful Point 13,870 in the Background

We stopped here for a break and for food. The remainder of the climb from here would be more steep. The weather still looked good although it was very slowly building by now into fair weather cumulous.

At about 13,200 feet the road turns a little nastier and steeper. It was at this point that we met two friendly girls who had left the Denver area at the insane hour of 2am in order to make the drive…all the way to 13,200 feet! We stopped and chatted as we smeared ourselves with sunblock. Our own selves…not each other.

Sharon (black) Tina (purple) and Don look at the Remaining Route up Antero

 

At this Point the “Road” Switchbacks Up Between the Two Points and Drops You at the Narrow Ridge Leading to Antero. The Brown Marker Center Frame is the Forest Service Route Maker – Route 278A

From here the road is much steeper, rockier, and narrow. It is still not too bad for the hiker but it sure slowed me down. Its really not all that bad. I am just not as fit as I would like and also I am carrying an extra 25lbs of unneeded bodily mass. It was also pretty hot.

Climbers Grinding Their Way Up the Rougher Portion of the Climb Towards the Ridge

At the top of the switchbacks we were thankfully delivered to the near-end of the ridge to Antero. The ridge may look a little imposing but it is never more than an easy Class 2 hike. There are a few portions where you have to use your hands to haul yourself up narrow, but short, rock crevasses, but it is enjoyable in a mildly challenging way.

First Close Look at the Ridge with Antero In the Background. This is the End of the Road, Literally.

The road ends here and even has parking for several vehicles. This is as far as many people ever come. From here they spread out to various portions of the mountain hunting gems. Peak Baggers continue on towards Antero over a beautiful ridge liberally sprinkled with interesting spires and other rock formations.

The High Point on the Ridge is Chemically Altered, Nearly White, Rock. It Contrasts Strongly to the Surrounding Geology.

 

Three Equidistant Spires Along the Ridge. This Ridge is a Beautiful and Fun Scramble.

Don and I continued on to the ridge with Antero well in sight. The weather was holding and it certainly looked as though we would make this summit. Don was energetically, but carefully, cranking his way along the ridge. The entire ridge took perhaps 15 minutes or so to traverse.

From the ridge and most of the final pitch we could see happy successful climbers on Antero’s summit. I would not call this a crowded peak. In fact it was rather more deserted than I thought it would be with just the “normal” number of climbers on the route. After completing the ridge we were delivered to our final pitch at the base of Antero. There were two choices. One route zig-zags easily up Antero’s southern slope. The other route blasts directly up the southwest shoulder to the summit.

Seven or so Climbers Ascending the Direct Route to Antero’s Peak

On the ascent Don and I elected to take the marginally longer but somewhat easier Southern route as I was feeling a bit winded. Don pulled ahead drawn by the urge to stand on his first 14er of 2011. I dawdled up the trail until I apparently took a wrong turn somewhere at a switchback. At this point I didn’t bother to find the actual route and I simply made a direct line up the last 100 vertical rocky feet to the summit. I arrived just a few minutes behind Don at around 10am.

Don (above) and Me (below) on Antero’s Summit Around 10:15am

I relaxed on the smallish summit of Antero with Don and just one other person. Amazing. Just one other person to share this summit with. We watched as the cumulous clouds began to build into something just a bit more exciting than the fair weather clouds that had been with us most of the day. It didn’t look like bad weather was imminent but we still had the down climb to, and then along, the exposed ridge. We both agreed that we did not want to be on that ridge if something more sinister were to develop from the formerly friendlier clouds.

Don and I descended the direct route down to the ridge passing a few groups of folks and exchanging some friendly mountain chatter. We crossed the ridge and then headed down. At about 13,200 feet we were surprised to see a small weasel. It was skittering about in the rocks then ran across the mining road where I got a good look at the thing. It was not a pika. It definitely had a long slender body and small ears. Interesting…I had never seen a weasel before outside of a courtroom. We also saw three ptarmigan near this area during our ascent.

Don and I finally reached camp a little after 1pm after endlessly negotiating the long switchbacks, dodging ATVs and 4X4s. It was a hot day. And little if any breeze. The heat really zaps me on these hikes. It was a great hike and Don was quite happy (relieved) to have a new 14er under his belt. The clouds really started to build and there was even the rumble of thunder as were packing up camp .

We stopped at the Coyote Cantina (http://coyotecantina.com/) in Johnson Village (near Buena Vista) for one of the best burritos in the world and a beer, then the long drive home to the Denver area through the vast expanse of 285 and South Park. Another great hike and it was great to be back in the hills with Don.

If you liked this trip report and photographs please check out my book at:

http://4000meters.blogspot.com/2011/03/please-have-look-at-my-recently.html

GPS track, Aug 17, 2011. Round Trip Length About 10 Miles, and a Little Bit Better than 3,400 Feet Elevation Gain.

Mt. Elbert, Solitude It’s Not. But It Is Thoroughly 14,433 Feet Wonderful

Finally! 14+ feet and its already August. Crazy! Crazy I tell you. Last year I made it to 14+ feet at the end of May. But last year there was not the snow on the summits that we had this year. There is STILL snow up there now. It seems fitting that I would climb the highest Colorado peak after waiting so long to get started.

Mt. Elbert, 14,433 feet. The king of the 14ers in Colorado. And just a few feet shy of the highest continental 14er, Mt. Whitney located in California. While Elbert is indeed the highest peak in Colorado, it is not exactly challenging…technically. It is, pretty much any route you try, a long hike with plenty of steep portions. But it is essentially a walk up.

We chose the South Mt. Elbert trail originating near Twin Lakes. It’s a great trail with the typical long, steep, hot, aspeny approach. Its about 4.5 miles from the trailhead to summit. But you traverse aspen forest, krumholz, alpine tundra and rock. All along the way there is much to look at. It’s a rather pleasant hike.

It’s a good thing too. Cause you are likely to be hiking with many, many “friends.” Laurence and I started this hike at around 6:15am from the trailhead and still had a bunch of company. Typically when starting a hike this early there are few people. But, as Elbert is “easy”, close to Denver, and the highest summit on CO, it does attract the crowds.

I originally climbed Mt. Elbert in August of 2003…eight years ago. Things have changed since then. There are now a LOT more people on the trail. I finished my 40 X 50 14ers last year, and the proceeding years, with more distant and less travelled peaks including, Handies, Blanca, Uncompahgre Peaks. These are not as crowded as the closer-to-Denver-easier-hikes-that-anyone-may-drive-to mountains.

But I am not saying the crowds are a bad thing…always. Sometimes you need that remoteness and solitude that a high peak can provide. And sometimes its fun to tear up a mountainside with tons of folks. For some reason I rarely meet someone I would classify as a wanker in the mountains. Usually they are interested in the same things as me. They cooperate on the trail. And are generally pleasant to be around in those regimes above 13,000 feet.

Laurence and I were going to climb Elbert the weekend before but the weather was locked into the monsoon flow and there appeared to be a very high chance of thunder and lightening on Elbert. So we postponed one week to much better weather.

I found a campsite at the unexpectedly nice Forest Service Whitestar Campground near Twin Lakes. We had a great walk-on site. It oddly had no bugs. We got a late start on Friday 5th. And then there was a bunch of traffic. We stopped at the Dam Brewery in Silverthorne for dinner. It was excellent. We finally arrived at the campsite at around 9pm. It was dark. We wondered around a bit till we found the site and then were pleasantly surprised by it large size, levelness, and general layout. It was really quite nice. We set up our tents. Then took some time to look into the dark starry night. We saw the light of several satellites and the Milky Way in beautiful clarity. Around 10pm we retired to our respective tents for a 4:45am wakeup call.

4:45am came pretty damn early. Laurence and I roused ourselves, ate, organized gear, etc. We climbed into Laurence’s Forerunner and headed off for the trailhead just a couple of miles North past the Twin Lakes Campground arriving around 6am. After last minute preparations we were “boots-on-trail” around 6:15.

The hike starts out through some pretty dense foliage crossing a creek and finally climbing into a thick and beautiful aspen forest as it climbs steeply uphill.

The South Elbert Trail Winds its Way Through Some Rather Dense and Beautiful Aspen Forest

There are, as is typical of the Sawatch range, some pretty steep portions within the first mile or so of the hike. As you gain altitude you are afforded a beautiful view of Twin Lakes now increasingly below you.

The Trail Ascends Up Providing Views of the Twin Lakes Area Below

Finally the aspens begin to thin out and open up into alpine meadows near tree line. It feels good, for me at least, to get out of the trees. I much prefer hiking above tree line. I like the open rugged solitude of busted up rocks and high altitude alpine tundra. So it is with great anticipation that I welcomed the open meadows.

Laurence Stops just Above Tree Line for a Few Pictures. Twin Lakes in the Background

And finally the meadows transition to tundra. The trail in this potion of the hike has been widened and duplicated. At some points there are three or four distinct braided/parallel trails. But the way is clear and well travelled.

There were several groups of folks that we were “leapfrogging” along the trail(s). We would stop to rest. They would stop chat and move on. Then they would stop to rest. Repeat, for hours, and you get the idea.

Well Into the Tundra at Around 13,000 Feet We were Never Far from the Crowds. Elbert’s Summit in the Background.

The climb above 13,000 feet relented somewhat. Its still a grind but nothing too steep. Great scenery comes into view and we both got a good look at the people coming up the “standard route” about a half mile to the North using the Half Moon trail. You will be thankful to be climbing via the South Elbert Trail when you see how steep that trail is.

The trail turns to the SW to West and contours gently around the the upper portions of the peak just above 13,700 feet. At 14,100 feet the trail finally turns for its final summit pitch. At this point the climber STILL has over 340 feet vertical to ascend.

The Crowds are Visible Even From a Few Hundred Feet Below the Summit

At this point, Laurence and I slogged through the last switchbacks up the trail to the whooping and hollering crowds at the summit. The weather was great. It was warm and just a little breezy. Immediately below the summit I saw the precise point where the Half Moon Trail and the South Elbert Trail join, at right angles. I just found it amusing and interesting to stand on that spot. Maybe it was hypoxia. I don’t know. It seemed cool at the time that these trails that start miles apart and thousands of feet below finally meet just feet under Elbert’s summit.

The Exact Point where the Half Moon and South Elbert Trails Meet. Climbers in Background Ascending Half Moon. Climbers to Extreme Right Ascending South Elbert.

From the trail junction I turned for the last few feet to Elbert’s crowded summit. I could literally hear several conversations and people whooping in celebration at arriving upon the highest point in Colorado and indeed the second highest point in the Continual US. Mt. Whitney in California is about 72 feet higher. But heck, Whitney is in Cali.

Two Climbers Walk the Last Few Feet to Elbert’s Summit on a Well Worn Trail

 

Laurence (right foreground in green and black jacket) Takes in the Views and the Summit “Party”

I walked up the last few feet in total exhilaration at FINALLY reaching 14,000! Indeed 14,433 feet! It was August 6 and here I was finally tottering around on a 14er summit this late in the year. What the Hell!? It felt great! Laurence and I had had a great climb. Excellent conversation. Incredible views and meeting many MANY friendly folks along the way. The weather was perfect with just some fair weather cumulous drifting by above. Not even that far above.

A Bunch of People on the Summit. There were More Dogs on Elbert’s Summit than I Usually see People on Other 14er Summits.

 

Another Look (NE) at the Summit Crowds. Two Ladies We Met on the Summit (Julie left in red, Jodie right in purple)

Laurence and I talked with lots (LOTS) of folks on the summit. It seemed we were in the prime photo spot as group after group asked if we could snap their summit picture…Which we did, happily.

One pair of folks who we met was Jodie and Julie shown above. Very nice ladies from Grand Junction who we ended up talking with on the summit. Elbert was Jodie’s first 14er and Julie’s 4th.

I (and I am guessing most 14er climbers) typically poo poo crowded hikes. But Elbert is different. I guess because we expected that it would be crowded. Well…maybe not this crowded. But anyway, it was absolutely fun. Everyone was joyful, almost manic as is often the case in the thin air of 14,000+ feet. But as Jodie said, “it was fun to be a part of the energy of the crowd.” I completely agree.

The Heroic Summit Shot of Me (left) and Laurence (right) on the Summit of Elbert

The trip back down was uneventful. We followed our ascent route and passed a lots of people still coming up. The hike, as hikes often do, dragged on and on…and on. This was a nine mile round trip. While not super long, it is not trivial, especially if you factor in the 4,000 foot ascent. And it was a rather hot day.

We arrived back at the trailhead around 2:30pm. Not a bad time considering the 6:15 start and the time spent on top. Laurence and I drove back to the Whitestar Campground from the trailhead where we struck camp and then headed off to the Golden Burro in Leadville to fill our pie holes with a burrito. The Golden Burro has been hit or miss in the past. But on this day it was a definite hit!

The service was excellent and the food fantastic. And the waitresses were all dressed in period clothing (which was oddly alluring) because we were coincidentally in Leadville during “Leadville Boom Days.” See http://www.leadvilleboomdays.com/ for more info.

Elbert was a great climb and Laurence a great climbing partner. Along with the “cast-of-thousands” this late (in my season) 14er hike was a success!

If you enjoyed reading this trip report, and honestly, how could you not, please have a look at my recently published book, “a common experience.” You can find information here: http://4000meters.blogspot.com/2011/03/please-have-look-at-my-recently.html.

GPS Route of the Elbert Climb

Giddy Up! Horseshoe and Peerless Peaks, Mining History, and Rugged Beauty All In One (or Two, or Three) Stops

I have been wanting to climb Horseshoe Mountain for a couple of years now. Its characteristic cirque and proximity to other scenic peaks always made it a “must do.” And finally I was able to do it…Climb it I mean.

Originally, I had planned to climb Quandary with a Spring WTS student. I have climbed Quandary before but I think it’s a fun peak and looked forward to climbing it again. Apparently, her schedule did not line up as we got closer to the date and she was not able to make the climb on Quandary. As I had already set aside the time I redirected my goal to Horseshoe Mountain and was able to recruit another Spring WTS student, Pat Dunlap.

On Friday afternoon we headed down to Fourmile Creek near the Mount Sherman trailhead. Pat and I checked out the Fourmile Creek Campground and saw that there were several unoccupied spots. So we headed off up the road past the Leavick Mine site to scout the trailhead. The directions to the Horseshoe trailhead are a bit confusing and contradictory.

I had read directions that indicated that you turn at Leavick Mine and some that said you turn after the mine. All seemed to indicate that you turned left from Fourmile Creek Road at a four-way intersection.

Pat and I did see a road from near Leavick Mine but it was not clear how one accessed it. We traveled past the mine for a short way and found a four-way intersection were we turned left (Southeast). We climbed up a relatively good mining road to near tree line at 11,800 feet. We were in the correct place according to my GPS. There happened to be some hunters up there scouting game and they confirmed we were indeed on the correct road to Horseshoe Mountain.

Pat and I hopped back in the truck and headed back to claim a camp site. The camping area is pretty nice overall. But the individual site are not that great. They suffer somewhat from a lack of level ground, although they do have fire rings and tables…a homey touch. There were a few “better” sites but they were already taken. We eventually found site 12 and set up. We noticed that there seemed to be the remnants stream flow pretty much through the center of the site. Pat and I were able to find a couple of tent sites and set up.

A Sunset View of Sheep and Lamb Mountains from Fourmile Creek Road

We set up out tents just as it started to sprinkle. There were a LOT of mosquitos. Fortunately, I brought mosquito repellant – Pat. Pat was not so much as a repellent as an strong attractant. Those bugs went after him like a fat kid on a Christmas ham. And by default, left me mostly alone.

Campsite 12 at the Fourmile Creek Campground. Pat Huddles Against the Mosquitos.

Around 9:30 pm we retired to our tents with a 4:45 am wake-up call. The monsoon had been in place for nearly two weeks and showed signs of blocking but we wanted to get an early start anyhow…cause starting early is always the smart thing to do.

In the morning we were up and around running…amazingly…early. We drove up to the trailhead and were hiking up into the morning light and Horseshoe Basin by just a smidge after 6am.

Let me say right up front that any sort of trail description can be tossed out the window right now. After you ascend up to around 12,000 feet there a zillion roads, trails, paths, etc. Trying to follow a “published” route description is a waste of time.

A Morning View of the Vast Horseshoe Mountain Cirque. It Really is Amazing.

The best strategy after arriving at 12,000+ feet is to look at the chaos of mining roads lying before you in the basin and simple take what appears to be the most efficient route. I mean, you can see abundantly clearly where you need to go. Its not like it is real hard or anything. Most any route/road will get you to the “base” of Horseshoe. But there are some routes that are more efficient than others. Pat did an amazing job of route selection and was able to get us to the Horseshoe Ridge with an economy of motion.

Mining Activity Near the Top of the Ridge. These are the Remains of the Peerless Mine.

There is literally mining activity ALL OVER this area. Everywhere. Structures. Junk. Old tin cans. Prospect pits. You can’t swing a dead cat without hitting some evidence of mining in this basin.

Its amazing to think that these structures have lasted as long as they have. I am assuming from around the late 1800s. Pat and I noticed tin cans that used (lead) solder and rough hewn nails. Remarkable…And the best was yet to be discovered.

We climbed up through the mining area and onto the vast arcing saddle/ridge that makes up the mass of Horseshoe Mountain. The remaining climb is just a matter of walking up the ridge on well consolidated talus and scree from the ridge to the summit.

The Ridge to the Summit on Well Consolidated Talus and Scree. The Trail Can be Seen Snaking up Just Below the Rightmost Snow Field.

 

Looking North from the Saddle. Peerless Mountain Right Foreground, Sheridan Left, and Sherman Far Right Background.

Pat and I continued up the relatively gentle slope towards the summit. We had made pretty good time as it was barely past 8am. The weather looked great and thankfully, and quite unusually, the winds were light.

There were animal tracks along this portion of the trail (up the final ridge). Some sort of cloven-hoofed animal. I can’t really ID animals unless they are standing in front of me. And sometimes even then its hard unless it’s a dog, cat, or perhaps a bunny. Amazingly up the trail and all of the way to the summit the were substantial portions of the trail that were mushy from melt-off. There is still a lot of snow in the mountains. And even up to the very summit there are areas that are quite damp.

Pat Makes His Way Towards the Final Summit of Horseshoe in the Distance Encircled with Snow and Capped with a Cairn

We made the summit at about 8:45am. Not a bad time for me (about 2.5+ hours). We were the only people there. The wind was calm. The skies blue, And the views vast and magnificent.

Pat Stands on the Summit of Horseshoe Mountain

Pat and I took off our packs to relax and eat/drink and rest up from the climb. I read in an old book, “Colorado’s High Thirteeners, A Climbing and Hiking Guide” published 1989, 1992, Mike Garret and Bob Martin by Johnson Books. There is a sentence, “There is an old cabin near the summit of Horseshoe Mountain.” And damned if there isn’t. I had sort of forgotten about that obscure sentence until we noticed a roof sticking up just off the summit. When I say, just off the summit, I mean like just ten feet of so. This cabin is basically at 13,890 feet. Who the heck could work here? How could this cabin stand the years and years of brutal winds and weather and still be (mostly) standing? It is remarkable to me that these guys worked in these conditions.

The Mining Cabin just Below the Summit at About 13,880ish Feet

 

The Other Side of the Mining Cabin Looking Back Up Towards the Summit

Pat and I hung out on the summit for a while looking at Mount Sherman, Peerless, and Sheridan in the distance. We fueled up. Tanked up and headed off the gentle slopes towards Peerless.

Me (left), My Nose and Teeth (center of face), and Pat (right) Relax on Horseshoe’s Broad Summit

Peerless is a rather diminutive summit once you have already gained the ridge connecting Horseshoe and Peerless just above Peerless Mine. It rises only about 130 feet from the saddle.

The Rocky but Short Pitch to the Summit of Peerless Mountain

 

Pat Summits Peerless Mountain

We topped out on Peerless, which is really a high point along the ridge. Pat wanted to go over and tag Sheridan. I didn’t. He came up with a very reasonable plan for him to continue on to Sheridan while I descended our ascent route. He would then drop off of Sheridan and into the basin that hosts the trail heading up to Mount Sherman. From there, he would continue down to Fourmile Creek Road and head towards the gate. I, in the mean time, would head back to the truck and drive up Fourmile Creek Road and meet him.

I headed off of Peerless and dove down into the mining area and threaded my way back through all the mining roads back towards the truck. We had radios and were able to (sort of) communicate as long as we had something approaching line-of-site.

I made it back to the truck with no problem. I switched radios because the one I was using was not working very well. With the new radio I reestablished radio contact with Pat and we both headed towards each other along Fourmile Creek Road. Incredibly, and quite by coincidence we both made it to the gate at the Sherman trailhead within two minutes of each other! I was glad to see Pat. I was uncomfortable splitting up but it could not have worked out better.

This was as good as it gets in the Colorado mountains. I finally stood on the summit of Horseshoe with a good friend on a great day. I look forward to our next hike. We saw only one other group of four people on Horseshoe. When I picked up Pat at the Sherman gate it literally looked like school had let out as floods of people were disgorging off the trailhead after, hopefully, summiting Sherman.

GPS Track. Red is Ascent. Blue is Descent.

Reunion – Square Top Mountain

Oh to be back in the mountains again. I was feeling a little stale writing all those gear reviews. What I really wanted was to use that gear up above tree line. And finally I have. I mean really…how many dry gear reviews can one write before their cred goes out the window. I think I was close to finding out.

Saturday, June 25, I climbed climbed Square Top Mountain (13,794 ft.) as a reunion hike with a subset of my Wilderness Trekking School (WTS) students from Spring 2011. This was a spectacular climb with nearly perfect weather although perhaps a bit too hot. Light breeze, clear views, and plenty of sunshine. And it was great to be hiking with some of the very best and most fun students I have had in eight years of instructing.

Hosting this official CMC hike was Joe Griffith, a past student of mine who has since ascended to the rank of WTS director. I invited Joe along for two reasons. One, I like him and like hiking with him. Two, and more important for the students, Joe is an official CMC trip leader. I am not a CMC trip leader. So by having Joe lead, we were able to get the students halfway to a C rating in the CMC. Win Win!

Square Top is interesting for many reasons. One thing I have noticed is that there are many people who say, “Oh yah, I have always wanted to climb that peak.” However, sitting near Bierstadt and Evans, Square Top seems to be lost in the aura that the 14ers cast about themselves and therefore don’t see the traffic that a mountain that rises only 266 feet more experiences.

I have climbed Square Top twice before and I love this mountain. Its right across the street from Bierstadt. While Bierstadt may have several hundred people on a given Summer weekend, Square Top may have ten…tops. It’s a beautiful interesting peak with incredible views. After you tag Bierstadt, cross the street and give Square Top a try. Believe me…I get the whole 14er thing. But there are a LOT of great 13ers in this state. Don’t pass them by. Get up on them.

The hike started on Friday night. I met two other students and we camped at Guanella Pass on the West side. Its really quite a nice camping area and the sunsets are always superb.

Sunset on Guanella Pass looking at Bierstadt, the Sawtooth and Evans

We all tucked in our individual tents around 9:30pm for a wake time of 5:30am. The rest of the hikers were to arrive around 7ish on Saturday. The night was very peaceful with just a light breeze and the usual slamming of car doors, outhouse doors, people laughing and such. It was a typical night of sleep at elevation (11,700 ft.) waking up a lot. Falling back to sleep…repeat..for several hours.

We all woke up the next morning and had ample time to strike camp, eat, prep our gear, and so on. The remaining hikers were a bit late coming up from Denver. The weather was perfect so there was no hurry. We had boots on trail by 7:25am.

We started down the standard trail (past the outhouse) for about 10 minutes then cut up to the ridge (that eventually leads to Square Top) where a sign says, “Trail Closed.” This trail up Square Top is vastly more interesting than the new trail which is further South. We followed our Leave No Trace (LNT) procedures to minimize impact as we ascended to the ridge hundreds of feet above.

The Entire CMC Group on the Trail Heading Towards the Ridge via the Linear Snow Gully in the Background

We carefully hiked up to the ridge and followed a linear gully just below the ridge top for no particular reason except that’s how I have done it in the past. The ridge was mostly clear of snow and the route finding was easy. This part of the ridge has very interesting features and it’s a little jumbled up geologically.

Pam Gives the Snow in the “Trench” a Try While the Remainder of the Group Head up the Rocks Above Her

We were taking it slow as the weather was great and there was no reason (at all) to hurry. Lots of stops for photos, admiring the tundra, and shootin’ the poop (in a figurative sense). We were all having a great time. Finally, we topped out on the ridge and had our first good look at the summit of Square Top.

Square Top Mountain in the Distance with a Surprising Amount of Snow Still on the Approach Ridge

From this point on the ridge the trail eases to gentle rolling hills. It’s a very nice walk amongst interesting and varied geology and the tundra environment. We walked along the ridge top making our way to the saddle at the base of Square Top which really marks the beginning of the nasty steep portion of the climb. We all stopped here on the saddle for some food and water and planning.

From the saddle, the terrain turns much steeper, rockier, and at around 13,500 feet, is covered in snow. Perfect! This climb has everything! The team spent some time strategizing the best route up the exposed portion of the ridge and then into the snow. It did not look particularly dangerous but we just wanted to make the hike as safe and enjoyable as possible as some of the students had not spent much time climbing in conditions like this. We didn’t really want anyone missing a hold and sliding all the way down to the Square Top Lakes.

The Team Begins the Slog Up the Steep Final Approach Ridge (It Sure Looked Steeper in Person?)

Up we climbed. The team started to string out (as teams often do) along this portion as the steepness began to weed out the faster folks from the slower folks. One of my students began to slow down here. She was not tired or ill…she had just never climbed at this altitude in steep, rocky, snowy terrain and she was a little tentative.

I stayed with her all the way up the ridge helping to find the best route, making sure she was comfortable, and basically just having a good time, taking our time.

Karen, While a Little Slow, Showed Great Tenacity, Heart, and Judgment on Square Top. And She Made the Summit in Fine Spirits.

The others in the group had moved upward and were just out of sight over the ridge. We had radio contact with the higher group as well as some other friends who just hiked up to the Square Top Lakes. Karen and I were approaching the snowy portion of the ridge and determining the best route when I saw a familiar head pop up from high up above.

Laurence Pops Over the Snowy Ridge to Make Sure that Karen and I Found the Best Route Across the Snow

Laurence, another student on the hike, had stayed behind to make sure that Karen and I could find their steps through the snow and get back to solid rock as efficiently as possible. It was a nice move on Laurence’s part and it made the ridge-to-snow-to-rock transition a little easier.

After we crossed over the snow field it was a simple matter of climbing the gentle rounded over ridge to the broad summit that makes Square Top, well, square.

Karen Rests High on Square Top’s Ridge for a Photo Op in the Snow. Bierstadt and Evans in the far distance.

 

The Short Walk to the Summit. Our Team Can be Seen on the Actual Summit in Distance as Two Other Hikers Depart.

The rest of the team had made the summit several minute ahead of us. Laurence now moved on ahead while Karen and I tottered over the busted up rock and finally to the summit proper. The weather was still perfect with a strong breeze. Everyone was feeling great, enjoying the views and otherwise celebrating why we live in Colorado.

The Summit Team on Square Top (13,794 ft.) with Grays and Torreys in the Distance

It was a great day as days usually are in the mountains. The team worked well together. We all took our time and really enjoyed hiking together and we all look forward to the next big hill!

We descended via a different route that took us more to the South. This descent is more gentle and gives one some different perspectives of the scenery and of the Square Top Lakes below. We were meeting our other friends at the lakes still 1,500 feet below us. We had been in radio contact with them most of the day and looked forward to closing the loop at the lower Square Top Lake.

The hike wrapped up by meeting Tim and Cheri at the lower lake. We sat and chatted as we collected up the entire group. Then we headed back along the trail to the cars. This was a great reunion. A fantastic first summit for 2011. And one hell of a good group of people.

GPS Route of the Loop Hike (Click to enlarge map)

Please have a look at my recently published book, “a common experience”

a common experience by Benjamin F Smith | Make Your Own Book

a common experience is a collection of autobiographical short stories that took place between 1998 and the present. a common experience started out as a "fine art" photography book. The text was merely to provide some quick background and context on each image.

However, as the book progressed, the text became as, or even more, important than the images. As the details of each image were elaborated into words, the intention of my book morphed from an art book, to a collection of scenes describing how my life was changed by the stories accompanying each image. The story behind each image, I realized as the book progressed, was the essence of each picture and the thing that made each image so visually powerful and important.

a common experience is not a hiking book, or a guide book. It is an autobiographical journey set in the Colorado landscape. Hiking and climbing in a common experience provide only the context and subject matter for my photographic interests, and the classroom where I was able to face fears, meet challenges, share experiences, and create a record that will hopefully be read by many.

Mile High Mountaineering Flatiron 38 - Backpack of the Gods!

OK, so it can take me a few times to get something right now and then. But, I can be a bit picky. I have been through three packs already this season and really, the season has not yet started.

It began innocently enough with a closeout Granite Gear pack. It was nice. A good pack but it didn't work out. Next came an Osprey pack. Osprey is one of the finest makers of backpacks and I have been using their gear for years. But, alas, it was not to be. The Kestrel looked good on paper but for various reasons it did not work for me. Mostly it was the lousy plastic back panel that bulged with a full pack.

Then a student in my Wilderness Trekking School class told me about a new Denver company called Mile High Mountaineering (http://www.mhmgear.com/). They are small. They only make three packs. They have only been in business since April 2011. But boy, they make a damn fine pack.

The Mile High Mountaineering Flatiron 38 Backpack.

(image courtesy Mile High Mountaineering)

The MHM Flatiron 38, at 38 liters, is for me a perfect size for a day pack. I have not measured its volume but it seems a BIG 38 liters. MHM has not cut any corners on this pack either. This rig is full-featured and contains several features simply not found on other packs.

I won’t go into details as to the Flatirons specs, features, etc. You can, and I urge you to do so, check out the MHM web site for a complete description of all their gear. I will say that the construction, materials, fit and finish are perfect. Its beautiful to look at and it carries loads quite well.

A few details I really like are the way that MHM has implemented the adjustable shoulder straps. You access Velcro adjustment straps from the inside of the pack. Very simple and MHM has even provided torso length measurements so if you have someone measure your torso, you may start directly with the actual measurement on the pack and see how it feels.

MHM has also provided huge zipper pulls so that you can zip/unzip while wearing gloves or mittens. There is a sturdy full length zipper down the front of the pack providing easy access to the pack innards without disgorging all your gear to get at that extra pair of socks at the bottom of the pack. There is a double row of gear loops (4 on each side) running down the front of the pack. It also, to my great surprise, incudes a rain cover. But with the water-resistant zippers I am not sure how needed a pack cover is.

MHM…Check em’ out. Like any good business, MHM of course is building product in order to make a living. But Jeff Popp (president) and the rest of the gang at MHM clearly want to be successful by building the best packs. I look forward to seeing their product line broaden.

Gear Report

The Osprey Kestrel backpack has worked out well. I am not yet sold on the way the internal bladder works but the problems I have had may be a function of the way I pack. I think I just need to do some tuning. I have only used it twice for Wilderness Trekking School class.

Overall the Kestrel holds gear great and loads easily. The hip suspension is perfect. I think I need to do some shoulder strap adjustment to get it just so. But the hip belt is really comfortable.

The problem I have had with the internal bladder is that a full bladder causes the back panel to bulge out (into my back). What I think is happening however is that I pack my bivy inside parallel and directly against the bladder. When the pack is full the bivy pushes against the full length of the bladder and causes it to bulge against the back panel. I will try moving the bivy to the side and see if that helps next time I hike.

Time to whip up something to eat

I also picked up a GSI Halulite Minimalist cook set. GSI has cleverly designed several different cook sets for nearly every outdoor use. The Halulite Minimalist is specifically designed for a backpacker who just boils water for dehydrated meals and perhaps some coffer/soup/hot chocolate or similar.

The entire set cleverly nests with all the included components as well as a small gas cartridge and stove. I am using the Snow Peak Gigagpower stove. I have had this stove for years and it really works well. It folds up into a very tiny package and fits right inside the nested cook set. There are of course several other small foldup stoves that would work.

GSI Halulite Minimalist cook set (Image Courtesy GSI Outdoors)

 

Snow Peak Gigapower Stove (Image Courtesy Snow Peak)